Plans can go wrong and that is when the real fun and adventure begins.....

Wow…I have not written on here for a long time and so there is much to tell but I must, as is custom, begin at the beginning and slowly find my way through all the great experiences I have had in the past few days. So Banos ended up being a very beautiful trip. We did indeed end up renting a set of bikes and explored the surroundings of Banos on our two-wheeled machines. There are over 13 waterfalls in the nearby valleys of Banos and so, being the big nature-lovers that Sergio and me both are, set out full of enthusiasm to seek them all out. I could describe how we repeatedly stood there, side by side, sore bums and mouths wide open, as the ear-ripping thunders of the waterfalls glued us to the spot but then that might get boring after the 10th waterfall…They were all astonishing and I repeatedly left, convinced that waterfalls are simply nature’s temples, places for special energy to accumulate. So 8 hours later ( yep that is right, we cycled from 10 in the morning until 6 in the afternoon) and 48km in our legs, Sergio and I, both felt that the day could be ticked off as a success and as a reward treated ourselves to our first meal that day ( I did sneak in a banana earlier in the day and Sergio, after all he is a guy, consumed about 6 sandwiches)…so I must correct myself and say first “proper” meal of the day, of soup and rice with some vegetables ( chicken for Sergio). For dessert, as a massive sweet-tooth overcame me shortly after, I allowed myself a cheeky cup of “Morocho”, the traditional rice with milk; with cinnamon and raisins it really hits the spot ( or for me at least). That evening, me being very ready to call it a day, we met some people who definitely did not think so. They lived in Banos and so had a great insight into the night life of the town- what does that mean?! A groovy reggae bar/gallery/random building situated just on the outskirts of town, with live music, a lovely old barman/owner, and a cool bunch of people. It was there that my next few days already started forming; but I was at that point not aware of that fact. I met Marco over a game of pool (which I am now apparently quite good at…beginners luck, but shhhh don’t tell the others). Sergio and me spent the night with Marco and his friend and partied there, and later on moved to another, slightly busier bar. So it happened that it was 4.10am, and I was suddenly in a hurry. Now you might be wondering where the hell a weird little 19-year-old can be rushing at 4:15am, and trust me most of the people still about did wonder, but the truth is, that my bus for Quito was leaving at 4:40am and I still had to get to the hostel, pack and make my way to the bus station- I was in a hurry!!!! I made it however, and so 3 hours later I was once again letting in the air of Quito’s morning breeze wash over my somewhat sleepy face. It was the 27th of February, and my flight to Punta Arenas, in the south of Chile, was scheduled for that evening. With that in mind, I pulled out my serious “lets go and see something” self and set out into the streets. I did see a lot, and now that I try to recollect it, it seems slightly incredible, but the highlights were the teleferico, (a lift that brings you onto a big mountain, overlooking the entire city of Quito, spectacular) and a beautiful little restaurant (if I can call it that), where I sat and had late lunch with the owner, an old lady and her grandchild. I can say, with complete certainty, that my grandma could not have made a better seafood soup. This lady was so generous and so inviting, I had to take a picture with her and informed her that I might just start calling her my 5th grandma J she smiled and nodded, waving me goodbye and calling me her “ ( Spanish for grandchild). I then rushed back to the hostel ( Centro del Mundo- the receptionist now my good friend) and packed up, heading to the airport. The mood was excellent, little traffic and the thought of seeing my family the following day was no doubt causing a lot of excitement. Little did I know….the earthquake in Chile had fully destroyed any coherent transport throughout the country and so my flight suddenly seemed very unfeasible. As much as I tried to put my situation into perspective, and see that being healthy and alive was in fact something I should be grateful, the thought of getting back into a taxi and paying for more nights at the hostel did annoy me somewhat. But nothing could be done; it was Saturday night and like the lady at the LAN desk said: “There is nothing I can do, so call back on Monday and you might be able to fly to Santiago”. Great, I thought; wanting to fly to Punta Arenas, where my family would be waiting for me the following morning. It turned out that my extra few days in Quito would be very interesting and important I think; now that I look back. I arrived back in the hostel, the receptionist not even attempting to hide her amusement at me constantly walking out of the hostel door, only to always return a few hours later. That same night, Marco, my new friend, walked through the door of my dorm. Staring at him in disbelief, and he kind of staring back, we both smiled-because neither of us knew the other one was staying in that hostel but we both suddenly knew that our days of getting to know each other were not over just yet. Marco is unfortunately German ( I know, strange that I used the word “unfortunately” in this case, if I am German too but….) and this means that he likes to party; and pretty hard for that matter. I will let you figure out the damages for yourselves; but just a few hints: rum, music, 6am, street, tumbling…….The next day, after a coffee and some porridge to perk me up, I was already dragging Marco out into the streets, for some Quito action. We paid a visit to the renowned Medio del Mundo and the Sun Museum about 300m farther, where the REAL Equator line runs across. I could not suppress a quite chuckle when I watched the tourists taking pictures at Medio del Mundo, knowing that the line they so proudly pointed out in their photographs was 300m off the actual one J A long walk, meal of Chinese veggie noodles, and several tired sighs, Marco and me tumbled back into the hostel, kind of happy to just chill for the night! That night another beautiful thing happened when we met Tzlil ( yep, that is actually her name and not just my typing going spastic). Tzlil is from Israel and has enriched me in the 3 days I spent close to her side more than others have managed in years! Her outlook on the world is fresh but more importantly so very defined and unclear at the same time; this provides her with the freedom of thought to be open-minded but enough personal opinion to really seize advantage of certain moments that others might slide by. I walked alongside her and observed or simply listened, my ears suddenly the most treasured of my possessions, as they presented me with the means to hear her share her views……you can probably tell that she made an impression on me but the time we had together was also simply magic. Her, Marco and me explored Quito; heading over to an outside village, located in a crater, with its population not even exceeding 50, we sat on top of the volcano, looking down, the sound of the cows carried in the wind the only soundtrack to our idyllic scene, we were all very happy. During the day we walked, searched, tasted, tired and discovered; at night we talked, shared, celebrated, and grew closer. It was the 2nd of March and the endless calls, as well as the visit to the airport itself the previous day had only resulted in excessive phone bills so far. I had given up and started planning a trip to the jungle- civilization and technology seemed disappointing and the idea of heading into the wild to find an alternative to these seemed inviting……on Wednesday, the 3rd, I headed out on my own- needing some space. I started walking, and before I knew it an hour had passed, my t-shirt was soaked, and I was once more stepping through the door of the airport building. I had seen the sign towards the airport earlier in my walk and decided to head over, just in case someone capable was actually sitting behind the stained glass for a change. It was my lucky day, and because someone wished it to be so, the lady asked me a question I was more prepared for than I was aware myself at the time: “You want to fly to Santiago tonight?” and without missing a beat my mouth pronounced the word “YES” and so it came that I finally flew onto Chilean soil that night. I ran back to the hostel, packed up and straight back to the airport (you can probably predict that it was once again going to be a night without sleep). I left Quito at 11pm and arrived in Quaquil (another city still in Ecuador) 45min later. There we stayed in the plane whilst other passengers joined us on the plane. Then another 2 hours to Lima. In Lima I dozed in and out of sleep from 2am until 7am ( but never actually falling asleep, as you really do NOT want to miss an announcement-trust me). Anyway, at 1pm I was finally in Santiago and little did I knew that the real trouble hadn’t even begun yet. Santiago airport was not much of an airport. Upon arrival we got told to stay in the plane for 40min whilst our luggage got lined up on the runway. Each person then exited the aircraft, and when they spotted their luggage, they grabbed it, flashed their passport at the nearest police officer and ‘welcome to Santiago’ – yep, that was pretty much it!!! I was lucky that I befriended a couple of guys from California, who were being sent down to Concepcion by the US force, to help with the areas badly affected by the earthquake and tsunami. I did not know at the time that my acquaintance with them would come in handy but as I parted from them, I secretly wished I could head down with them and put my energy to some good use. At the airport I got told that there were no flights to Punta Arenas ( where my parents were waiting for me, to join them on board of a cruise in only 48 hours) and so it would have to be the bus…..At the bus terminal it was more good news: “Bus to punt arenas?? ( the lady laughs) that does not leave until Saturday ( it was Thursday)…GREAT!!!! I will admit that wondering through Santiago in the boiling afternoon sun and with the 18kg backpack on my back was getting slightly on my nerves and so I sat down in an internet café, browsing for a good hostel I could crash in for the night. Some might call this bad organization on my account – flying to Santiago and not having any name of a hostel for emergency situations- BUT I felt that even just looking up hostels in Santiago in advance would have given my future events the idea of not getting to Punta Arenas. Anyway, a few minute later and a very friendly taxi man was helping me with my luggage out of his taxi, and into the ‘La Chimba’ hostel. That night was a very nice and relaxing one, but as I did not know what the next days would bring I made sure that night’s sleep was a very good one. The following morning I made use of being in this chic city of Santiago and walked around for 7 hours – yep you heard me right!! Through the Bellavista area, down to Santa Isabel, up to Plaza de Arma, to the Central Mercado and finally up, around and back down from the San Cristobel hill, with the Virgin statue at the top. It was a beautiful day, I tried the typical street treat: Jugo de Huesillos ( roasted oats in peach compote with peach halves) and I even wondered into a LAN office ( my airline). The lady there was very helpful and so I left the office, in fact having a flight to get on, but only on the 6th at 8am. It did not matter though; the boat left at 5pm, so I would make that, and this at least gave me another whole day in Santiago. I could have just had another touristy day around the city the following day but instead I opted for the more ‘ivyesque’ version and headed down to Concepcion. I met Josh and David (the two officers) at 5am the next day. The truck loaded with water tanks, emergency supplies and many more, we all squeezed into the front two seats of the truck. The roads were at points unbearable and my bum bones were starting to make themselves heard –more like, screaming with pain!!!! We arrived and I just stared for a few seconds. Luckily there was no time for astonishment, shock or plain surprise, as the scene was massively hectic (but you can be assured that all those feelings were wildly pulsing through my body)!!! I could write an entire essay only on my 5 intense hours at the scene but I can’t!!! Because I would firstly, start kicking myself all over gain, over the fact that I could not stay longer, as well the fact that it’s just not possible to put my experience into words. Or maybe that it is but I suddenly don’t seem to have the accurate vocabulary, which this scene would deserve or need!! I mainly helped loading stuff on and off the trucks, lifting some gravel, helping some people with equipment or cleaning some surfaces, where medical procedures were to be carried out. I could not be of major help; unqualified, and in comparison to the massive soldier-like men wondering around, my feeble little student body suddenly seemed pathetic – and I swore to myself to change that!!!! (Some heavy weight lifting might be on the agenda in the following weeks). It was the psychological intensity and the sheer novelty of this situation that probably tired me out most and yet I kept running around, looking for anything I could help with. Josh and David, and their entire team, were so impressive, it was a joy to watch them do their work and the sentence: ‘even one person can change a lot’ kept running through my head!! I had to leave at around 6pm, as my taxi would be picking me up from the hostel at 4:30 am, I still had to pack and the ride was long and hard!!! Josh was driving up for more supplies and so we stepped into the gloomy space of the monster truck for one last time (although to be fair Josh was going to be spending a lot more time in that truck, so I guess it was just my last time). The drive back was long, but with little people on the streets and plenty to think about, we both spent it in silence, listening to the crappy radio station or chatting about the things we did that day!!! A hint: if you ever need some food for thought, head into a location hardly hit by a tsunami – I guarantee, you will have plenty to think about – in my case way too much. My brain (by this point exhausted) was ticking over like a clock gone crazy; and seeing that the nature of airports tends to be one full of waiting, sitting around and generally being bored, I had plenty of time to let my clockwork run wild and exhaust my brain even further!!! From the previous sentence you can see that I made it back to Santiago on time, packed up and after a not too bad drive to the airport was soon enough waiting for my plane to start boarding!! The flight was short and so there was not even a point in attempting to sleep. Instead I concentrated on the fact that I would see my family soon and watched the nature below us grow remoter and barer. It was lovely to see my family – I am not going to lie. As much as we independent youngsters like to convince everyone otherwise, when we see the comfort of our parent’s arms (and their wallet for the matter of that :P) we silently sigh to ourselves, thinking: life is good!!! And gee has it been good!!! As my father saw me, for the first time after a long time, he loudly proclaimed: you are undernourished, look like a walking skeleton and this will have to change!’ I knew that my father does not take the topic of nourishment and generally food very lightly and so his intense program to fatten me up began immediately. I will not even pretend for a single second like it was not delectable to feast on king crab, eel soup and local delicacies of other kind. Used to less filling and generally rich in flavour meals due to my low budgets, I enjoy every spoon-full. As my brothers attacked me with news and generally went into over-mode, my already tired brain and body quickly resorted to emergency energy supplies. But after a delicious lunch and coffee in the town of Punta Arenas we boarded to ship, which was to be our home for the next 5 days : Cruceros Mare Australis. We left on the 6th at 5pm and arrived on the 10th at noon in Ushuiaia (the most southern town in the world). It was unlike anything I have ever done before and miles off from anything I have been doing for the past few months of my travels. At 8am the loudspeaker would announce that ‘Breakfast is now being served in the Patagonia lounge’. Not only would this be announced in 4 different languages, but lying in the depths of my numerous feathered duvets I repeatedly woke up being thankful for this extreme luxury, which I know are only very temporary for me. The food is something I do have to concentrate on for a second; it was ridiculous!!!! A delicious buffet was served for breakfast. Followed by another even better buffet for lunch (with a theme e.g. Chilean, Italian, Israeli…), and then DINNER. Okay, it started at 7:30pm and usually finished at about 9:30pm. We had antipasti, then a soup, the main course and finally dessert!!! The chefs on the boat were magicians but the pastry chef was the best magician of them all…every meal we would all (mainly my baby brother and me) storm into the dining hall highly excited by the desserts that would be ornamenting the tables this time! Okay, so now that I have spent more time on food than many other topics lets move on. So the days on the boat where planned out around the three meals. In between breakfast and lunch was one program, and then another after lunch and before dinner. Our schedule contained numerous trips out on the Zodiacs: to watch penguins, walk on the shore, climb up to a few look outs and a glacier etc. and if we remained on the boat we had lectures and presentations on topics such as Glaciology, Shackleton’s expedition, penguins and other southern species. The highlight was on the 9th, when we got woken up at 6am and outside our window was Cape Horn, the southern tip of the world - “El Fin del Mundo”- The End of the World. As we ascended up to the very tip a general stillness and silence overcame everybody. We stood there, paying our respects to the 10 000 dead sailors who lie at the sea bed around Cape Horn and no one could suppress the majesty of this place. I shut my eyes and really thought about it; in front of me was only the Antarctic, the south pole, and behind me the entire world. It is an opportunity for those who wish to take it, to leave the bad and unwanted behind. As I turned around and took a fresh look at the lands above me, I felt like a new page had been turned. I am thankful for having received this opportunity for refreshing my canvas of life, maybe coating it with a new layer of white paint and I left with a sudden surge of renewed energy. When I say that a new coat of paint was brushed over my canvas I do not want to imply that I leave all behind - Quite on the contrary. But there is a difference between learning from our mistakes and moving on, and dwelling on bad memories and experiences. Maybe that is all that Cape Horn did for me; it gave me that last necessary kick, provided me with the right moment to not only realize this but apply it. That could have been the sudden rush of energy I experienced; simply old grudges or bad memories lifting off my shoulders, leaving me feeling lighter. I know that not everybody sets off on trips down to the bottom of the world, but I wish that at least those reading this blog can now take a second and transport themselves there, facing the open see with me and feeling the mass of land, the entire world behind them. Don’t wait like me, it drains you, so take any chance you get to release those old mistakes and memories – you have already learned from them all you can and need – now release them and move onto making new mistakes that you can learn from J

Anyway, on the 10th we arrived in Ushuiaia, the freezing blasting winds almost ripping our ears off. After a short wander round the town, we rented a car, picked up our luggage and arrived at our cabana – now officially one of my favourite places!! A small wooden hut, with walls largely being out of glass, a fireplace in the corner, jocose, and a view beyond believable. And that is pretty much where we have been relaxing ever since. After a cosy breakfast of freshly baked “media lunas” (little croissants) and some fruit and coffee we head out on little excursions, hikes or strolls around the glaciers. Then the day might be intermitted with a visit to the sauna, a dip in the jocose, or simply another coffee with a good book in hand. The weather has not been so kind and so continuous rain / snow at points, has been our companion for the majority of the days. It is funny how rain beating on the roof, and the grey tone of the sky, automatically shifts the body into slight hibernation mode; as if doing excessive exercise does not seem necessary or even worth it. Those are the days that one devotes to the intellectual self – reading, thinking, writing and engaging in other less physically strenuous exercises. So with that said, I am off for a short stroll up to the glacier and then I think a good, long session of reading is on the menu for this afternoon.