* Footnote:
In my previous blog I mentioned several Estancias, one being Estancia La Paz in Ascochinga.
I forgot to mention that it was the summer vacation house for the Argentinian president Rosa for 2 entire periods of his reign...so, that is just an example of how amazing South America is. In Europe you would pay huge amounts of money and all you would get is a 15min tour round the main rooms, and an annoying old man following you round, reminding you not to touch ANYTHING!! Here, we slept in his chambers, ate in his dinning room and sipped on wine in his receiving room- kind of magic!! I feel a bit bad though, whilst sipping away on some good Argentinian red wine with my parents, my mother managed to knock my glass over and so I can now say ( slightly ashamed but also maybe a little proud) that I spilt red wine on the president´s carpet :P
BOLIVIA!!!!!
So Wer drove even further north from salta and arrived in Purmamarca- a beautifully situated villager, with a setting that is unbelievable. With a massive mountian, called "Cerro de las siete colores" ( The Hill of seven colors) you really cannot believe your eyes. As we arrived in the late afternoon, the sun was beginnign to set and...WOW. The netire mountain flames up with colores like copper, brick red, purple, green, blue, orange...nothing like it. We stayed 2 nights and mainly explored the surroundings, visited some of the other sweet villages ( although we had to come to the conclusion that Purmamarca was the prettiest of the lot) and generally took in the culture of the far north. Seeing that my father and I had been searching for the perfect poncho throughout Argentina, we were extremely pleased when we wondered into a little forgotten shop, that turned out to be a treasure chest. Packed with antique ponchos, full of colors, shaped and styles we had more than enough to choose from. Over an hour later, we left the shop, both wearing out ponchos with great pride (and my mother walking visibly further away from us than usual...haha..clearly a bit embarassed. although I dare say more by my father than me, for he walked through the quite streets of Purmamarca, slightly carried away by his new attire, flapping the sides of his poncho like a moth)!!
Yesterday came the day that I had been fearing a little if I am ohnest. Crossing the border to Bolivia. After I said my goodbyes to my family ( I shall be seeign them in about 4-5 months again) I got on a bus in Tilcara, which took me to La Quiaca, the border town of Argentina. On the bus, two blokes from Argentina started questioning me about my journey and as it turned out we would be doing the same route, and so I was once again not alone!
We walked 10 blocks to the border and thats where it began. First standing in line for about 20min to get a stamp for leaving Argentina and then another 30min to get a stamp to enter Bolivia. It was incredible!! As soon as we crossed over into Villazon, the town on the Bolivian side, a man starting shouting at me and following me for taking a picture of the big welcoming sign "Welcome to Boilivia". Slightly frightened, the boys, Javier and Juan, took me under their wing and slowly but surely the guy stopped hassalign me. We exchanged some dollars and made our way up to the bus station. the goal was to leave Villazon ASAP and make our way up to Tupiza. The streets were colourful, loud, manic, women in traditional attires everywhere, babies tied to their backs with old traditional cloths....literally within 200m it was another world. Villazon is in 3,200m above see level and the sun was very stong. We all kept on drinking masses of water as it is easier to get light-headed and kept being astounded by the new surroundings.
HINT: chew coca leaves. yep, you heard me. It is what you think it is. In Bolivia people buy plastic bags full of leaves from the coca plant ( which when processed with millions of chemicals produces cocain). it is completely legal and actually helps a lot with the high altitude. We were lucky and so at 4pm we were seated in a bus to Tupiza, coca leaves in cheek and water bottle in hand, we were all ready for the next adventure. On the border we also met a german guy, called Thomas, and he joined us. Then there were five!!
The journey was a jOKE: the bus crossed, rivers, train tracks, dirt roads ( 70% of the road was not paved)...in other words we payed only 15 Bolivianos for quite an adventure ride!
At 7pm we arrived in Tupiza and straight away got approached by a sweet little girl who was adveritizing a hostel- for 25 Bolivianos a night ( approx. 3 dollars) we couldnt complain. We4 dropped our bags off, freshened up a bit and headed out into the streets- after all it was Friday evening.
Apparently Friday evenign is the night to be out in the town of Tupiza :) The local school just had a ball, so all the streets were full of youngsters clothed in beautiful evening attire. The main square was full of little stands selling local delicacies, and I myself got blown away by "pancho de canela" - basically hot rum with water and cinnamon - ricissimo!!!
But we were all tired and so called it a night around 12pm. thsi mornign it was tiem to part. The boys had been great for helping me cross the slightly manic border buit now they wanted to continue to Uyuni. Me???
Nope. For me it is time to head into the Salt plains - Salar de Uyuni. I depart tomorrow on a 4- day trip around the Salt plains, volcanoes, pink flamingoes and many more incredible things I am sure.
I shall write what I saw once I amk back but for now it is "Adios amigos". I now have to go and buy a sleeping back as the night temperatures can drop down to -5 degrees Celcius and we will be sleepign in simple cabins without electricity.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
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